Modular Kitchen Standard Size Guide: What Actually Works: 1 Minute to Spot the Perfect Modular Kitchen Layout for Your SpaceSarah ThompsonNov 21, 2025Table of ContentsCore Dimensions That Rarely FailSink, Cooktop, and Prep HeightsClearances and Circulation That Make a Kitchen Feel BiggerModules and Standard Cabinet WidthsErgonomics, Reach, and Storage LogicLighting Standards that Protect Eyes and WorkflowWorkflows: Triangle vs. Zoned PlanningIsland Seating, Overhangs, and LegroomVentilation, Acoustic Comfort, and Heat ManagementAppliance Niches and Tall IntegrationsMaterials, Edges, and SafetyColor, Psychology, and Mood in KitchensLayouts: What Actually Works in Real HomesInstallation Tolerances and Fine-TuningFAQTable of ContentsCore Dimensions That Rarely FailSink, Cooktop, and Prep HeightsClearances and Circulation That Make a Kitchen Feel BiggerModules and Standard Cabinet WidthsErgonomics, Reach, and Storage LogicLighting Standards that Protect Eyes and WorkflowWorkflows Triangle vs. Zoned PlanningIsland Seating, Overhangs, and LegroomVentilation, Acoustic Comfort, and Heat ManagementAppliance Niches and Tall IntegrationsMaterials, Edges, and SafetyColor, Psychology, and Mood in KitchensLayouts What Actually Works in Real HomesInstallation Tolerances and Fine-TuningFAQFree Room PlannerDesign your dream room online for free with the powerful room designer toolStart for FREEI’ve planned and built kitchens for more than a decade, and the most successful ones share a quiet consistency: the dimensions simply fit the body, the workflow, and the household. Standard sizes exist for good reason, but they only work when they’re aligned with ergonomic reach, appliance clearances, and lighting comfort. Here’s the practical size guide I use on projects to keep cooking, cleaning, and storage smooth.Evidence supports dialing dimensions into human factors. WELL v2 recommends task lighting of around 300–500 lux at work surfaces to reduce errors and fatigue, and IES kitchen guidance places ambient illuminance near 100–300 lux with task layers exceeding 500 lux around prep and cook zones—both directly tied to counter height and depth because light falloff depends on distance and angle. Steelcase research on movement and posture has repeatedly shown that ergonomically tuned heights reduce strain—an idea as relevant at the bench as at the desk—so we treat counter, sink, and cooktop heights as non-negotiable baselines (WELL v2).Core Dimensions That Rarely Fail• Base cabinet height: 34.5 in (876 mm) carcass + 1–1.5 in (25–38 mm) countertop = 35.5–36 in (902–914 mm) finished. For users under ~5'4'' (162 cm), 35 in can feel friendlier; above ~6'0'' (183 cm), 37–38 in can be justified for heavy prep zones.• Countertop depth: 24 in (610 mm) standard; I prefer 25–26 in (635–660 mm) where wall allows, which increases usable prep depth and reduces backsplash splatter.• Toe kick: 3–4 in (76–102 mm) height, 2–3 in (51–76 mm) depth. This prevents shin collision and improves posture at the counter.• Wall cabinet depth: 12–13 in (305–330 mm) standard. Keep 13 in for dinner plates; shallow 11–12 in for tight corridors to reduce head bump risk.• Wall cabinet height: 30–36 in (762–914 mm). In 8 ft ceilings, a 36 in wall cabinet with a 12 in crown or open top achieves a balanced proportion; in 9–10 ft, full-height to ceiling looks cleaner and expands storage.• Counter-to-wall cabinet clearance: 18–20 in (457–508 mm). Aim 19–20 in for undercabinet lighting and small appliances.• Tall pantry/decor panels: 84–96 in (2134–2438 mm) depending on ceiling. Align reveals with appliance heights for visual rhythm.Sink, Cooktop, and Prep Heights• Primary prep height: 36 in (914 mm) is safe; adjust to 35–38 in by user anthropometrics—standing elbow minus 4–6 in (100–150 mm) lands well.• Baking station height: 32–34 in (813–864 mm) if frequent rolling or kneading—lower height provides leverage.• Sink rim height: Match counter; consider 1 in lower if the basin is deep (>9 in / 229 mm) to reduce shoulder lift.• Cooktop height: Same as counter; verify hood capture and sightline. With induction, the thinner profile helps keep ergonomics tight.Clearances and Circulation That Make a Kitchen Feel Bigger• Aisle width: 42 in (1067 mm) for one-cook kitchens; 48 in (1219 mm) for two-cook or island + perimeter.• Appliance door swing clearance: 30–36 in (762–914 mm) in front of fridge, oven, and dishwasher. Avoid intersection of two swings in single-aisle kitchens.• Island size: Minimum 24 x 48 in (610 x 1219 mm) if seating is not needed. For seating, extend depth to 36–42 in (914–1067 mm), with a 12–15 in (305–381 mm) knee overhang and 24 in (610 mm) width per stool.• Work triangle: Each leg 4–9 ft (1.2–2.7 m), total 13–26 ft (4–8 m). If the space or lifestyle wants zones, ensure linear prep flow: fridge → sink → prep → cook, with uninterrupted 36–48 in counter between steps.Modules and Standard Cabinet Widths• Base cabinets: 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36, 42 in increments—use 18/24 for pull-out waste, 30/33 for drawer stacks, 36 for wide pots and pans.• Sink base: 30–36 in; pair with 21 in dishwasher for compact layouts or 24 in standard.• Wall cabinets: 12–36 in widths; prefer 15–30 in for balanced door proportions.• Tall pantry: 18–30 in; depths 24 in standard, 27 in for inset pull-outs; dedicate 5–6 in for broom or tray pull-outs where possible.Ergonomics, Reach, and Storage LogicHuman reach drives usable height. Frequently used items sit between 30–60 in (762–1524 mm) from floor; rarely used items can move above 72 in (1829 mm). Maintain 20–24 in (508–610 mm) maximum shelf depth to avoid a clutter trap. For drawers: top drawer at 34–36 in keeps utensils accessible, mid drawer at 22–28 in for bowls, bottom at 8–14 in for pots. Add full-extension slides and 18–21 in clear interior drawer depth to fit cookware without Tetris.Lighting Standards that Protect Eyes and WorkflowLayer ambient + task + accent. Ambient at 100–300 lux; task at 300–500 lux minimum around prep, cook, and sink; accent for warmth and focal zones. Undercabinet lighting placed 2–3 in (51–76 mm) from the cabinet front reduces backsplash glare. Color temperature at 3000–3500K keeps food tones appealing; use high CRI (90+) for accurate color rendering. WELL v2’s Light concept underscores glare control and circadian support, which I interpret as balancing diffuse ambient light with targeted, shielded task lighting (IES standards).Workflows: Triangle vs. Zoned PlanningClassic triangles are efficient, but modern kitchens benefit from task zones: landing zone at fridge (24–36 in counter), wet prep by sink (36–48 in counter), hot zone at cooktop (24–36 in counter both sides where possible), and bake station if relevant. To visualize and test variations easily, a room layout tool helps simulate appliance clearances, seating overlaps, and traffic lines before committing to cabinet orders.Island Seating, Overhangs, and LegroomFor stools, allow 24 in width per seat and 12–15 in knee overhang. Counter seating height at 36 in uses 24–26 in stool seat height; bar seating at 42 in uses 29–31 in stool height. Provide 30–32 in (762–813 mm) clearance behind seated diners for circulation; increase to 36–42 in if it’s a main walkway.Ventilation, Acoustic Comfort, and Heat ManagementRange hoods should match cooktop width (30–36 in typical) and capture area; 24–30 in above the cooktop for most units, 30–36 in for professional hoods. Keep sone ratings low (ideally 1–3 sones at working speed) to preserve conversation—a practical acoustic target in open-plan homes. Place dishwashers at 45–50 dB where possible; it matters when the kitchen flows into living spaces.Appliance Niches and Tall Integrations• Refrigerators: Standard 36 in width, 70 in height; confirm door clearance and pull-out distance.• Wall ovens: 27 or 30 in; center the primary oven at 34–48 in to avoid heavy lifts below knee level.• Microwaves: 24–30 in; aim 46–48 in center height in family homes to protect small hands and faces.• Dishwashers: 24 in; consider 18 in slimline for compact apartments.• Wine columns and beverage centers: 15–24 in; allow dedicated ventilation paths in tall panels.Materials, Edges, and SafetyQuartz or sintered stone at 1–1.25 in thickness holds a clean profile; eased or pencil edges reduce chip risk while remaining tactile. Non-slip flooring (R10–R11) in work zones prevents accidents. Avoid high-gloss fronts directly opposite windows to reduce veiling reflections. Under-sink waterproof liners, 3/4 in (19 mm) plywood sub-top for heavy stone, and cabinet levelers make installation robust.Color, Psychology, and Mood in KitchensWarm whites and desaturated earthy tones calm busy visual fields. Mid-tone cabinets reduce the appearance of smudges. For stimulating morning routines, add a controlled pop—muted olive or deep navy on the island—while keeping walls and counters light to maintain perceived spaciousness. Keep contrast ratios comfortable: task areas slightly brighter than surroundings, but avoid stark black-white extremes that amplify glare and visual fatigue.Layouts: What Actually Works in Real Homes• Galley: 42–48 in aisle; keep sink and cooktop on opposite runs for clear prep flows.• L-shape: Landing zones flanking fridge and cook; use a 36–42 in deep peninsula for casual dining.• U-shape: Minimum internal width 66–72 in to prevent pinch points; place the dishwasher near the sink corner but not in its swing.• Island: Ensure 48 in clear aisle around active sides; slide seating to the low-traffic edge.Visualize variants and test reach with an interior layout planner via a layout simulation tool to catch conflicts before fabrication.Installation Tolerances and Fine-TuningAllow 1/2–3/4 in (13–19 mm) scribe panels at walls; shims handle 1/4–1/2 in floor variance. Keep reveal lines consistent (2–3 mm) around appliances. Confirm counter overhang at 1–1.5 in and ensure GFCI outlets within code near wet zones. Test drawer interference at handles before final mounting—millimeters matter.FAQQ1: What is the most comfortable counter height for most people?A: 36 in works for the majority. If you’re under 5'4'', consider 35 in for prep; above 6'0'', 37–38 in can be more comfortable, especially for heavy chopping.Q2: How wide should kitchen aisles be?A: 42 in for a single cook; 48 in for two cooks or island layouts. This accommodates appliance doors and reduces shoulder collisions.Q3: Are 12 in deep wall cabinets enough?A: 12 in fits glassware and smaller plates. If you store full dinner plates, 13 in is safer. Keep depth consistent to avoid head bumps in narrow aisles.Q4: What lighting levels should I target over counters?A: Provide 300–500 lux task lighting at work surfaces, with ambient around 100–300 lux. Use 3000–3500K and high CRI (90+) for accurate food color and comfort based on IES guidance.Q5: How big should an island be if I want seating?A: Minimum depth of 36–42 in with a 12–15 in overhang. Allow 24 in width per stool and 30–32 in clearance behind for circulation.Q6: Does the work triangle still apply?A: Yes, but modern zoning often works better: fridge landing, wet prep, hot zone, bake station. Keep 36–48 in uninterrupted counter between major steps.Q7: What’s the best sink size for a small kitchen?A: A 24–27 in single-bowl sink maximizes usable base cabinet width and simplifies dishwasher placement. Keep basin depth at 8–9 in to avoid excessive reach.Q8: How high should a range hood be installed?A: Typically 24–30 in above the cooktop for standard units; 30–36 in for professional hoods. Match the hood width to the cooktop and aim for low sone ratings to reduce noise.Q9: What’s a safe proportion for wall cabinet height to ceiling?A: In 8 ft rooms, 36 in wall cabinets with crown or a finished top look balanced. In taller rooms, go full-height to ceiling to maintain proportion and storage.Q10: Which drawer sizes are most versatile?A: A 30–33 in wide drawer stack with full-extension slides covers utensils, bowls, and pots. Keep interior depths around 18–21 in for flexible storage.Q11: What color temperatures are best in kitchens?A: 3000–3500K keeps food looking natural and warm. Pair with layered lighting and good glare control to support comfort noted by WELL’s Light concept.Q12: How much overhang do I need for seating?A: 12–15 in knee space works well. Ensure adequate support—hidden steel brackets for stone, or corbels for deeper overhangs.Start for FREEPlease check with customer service before testing new feature.Free Room PlannerDesign your dream room online for free with the powerful room designer toolStart for FREE