Sanding Walls: 5 Tips for Paint Finish: Practical, room-by-room sanding advice I’ve learned after a decade of renovationsUncommon Author NameOct 23, 2025Table of Contents1. Match grit to the finish you want2. Choose the right tool for the surface3. Wet sanding for premium finishes4. Feather edges and fix transitions5. Control dust and prime properlyFAQTable of Contents1. Match grit to the finish you want2. Choose the right tool for the surface3. Wet sanding for premium finishes4. Feather edges and fix transitions5. Control dust and prime properlyFAQFree Room PlannerDesign your dream room online for free with the powerful room designer toolStart for FREEI once spent an afternoon sanding a kitchen wall with what I thought was the right grit, only to realize the finish looked like a poorly ironed shirt — full of streaks. That mistake cost me a weekend and a very patient client, but it taught me the hard lesson: matching sanding technique to paint finish matters. If you want pro-looking results without the headaches, start here — and take a peek at this kitchen case study I worked on that forced me to perfect my prep routine.1. Match grit to the finish you wantI usually tell clients: the smoother the finish you want, the finer the grit you’ll need. For flat or eggshell paints, 120–150 grit is my go-to to knock down imperfections; for ultra-smooth satin or semi-gloss, I’ll finish with 220 grit. The upside is a visibly cleaner finish; the downside is more time—finer grits take patience.2. Choose the right tool for the surfaceA sanding block beats a sheet of sandpaper half the time because you feel the surface better; for ceilings or high walls I switch to a pole sander, and for large areas an orbital sander saves my back. Power tools speed things up, but you risk gouging if you’re not careful—practice on scrap drywall first.save pin3. Wet sanding for premium finishesIf you’re chasing that showroom-level smoothness, wet sanding with very fine abrasives is my secret. It reduces dust and gives a glass-like surface before final coats. Wet sanding is a little messier and slower to learn, but I’ve used it on furniture and feature walls with stunning results—pair it with careful masking and you’ll thank me later. For visual planning, I sometimes compare notes with a detailed 3D floor example to see how light plays on a finished surface.save pin4. Feather edges and fix transitionsWhere old paint meets new skim coat, blending or “feathering” is vital. I sand the edges lighter and use joint compound to level transitions, then sand again. It’s a bit fiddly and adds a step, but it prevents visible bands after painting—worth it for any client who notices tiny details.save pin5. Control dust and prime properlyDust is the enemy of a clean finish. I shop-vac between sanding passes, wipe with a tack cloth, and always use a good-quality primer suited for the paint finish. On tight budgets I recommend a multi-surface primer that seals and saves repainting later. For larger projects I’ve even used an AI-assisted makeover to visualize how final textures read under different lighting.save pinFAQQ1: What grit should I use to sand drywall before painting?A: Start with 120–150 grit to smooth joints, then use 220 grit for a final pass if you want a very smooth finish. Adjust based on paint sheen and how perfect you need the surface to be.Q2: Can I wet sand latex paint?A: Yes—wet sanding works well for latex and reduces airborne dust, but use very fine abrasives and test a hidden spot first to avoid removing too much paint.Q3: Do I need to prime after sanding?A: Always prime bare drywall or patched areas. Primer seals the surface and ensures even paint absorption, making the final color and sheen uniform.Q4: How do I control dust while sanding?A: Use a vacuum attachment on your sander, work in stages, and wipe surfaces with a damp cloth or tack cloth between passes. Masks and eye protection are non-negotiable.Q5: Is power sanding safe for older homes?A: Be cautious—old paint may contain lead. If the home predates 1978, test for lead before aggressive sanding and follow safety guidelines or hire a certified contractor.Q6: What’s the difference between sanding between coats and final sanding?A: Sanding between coats (light scuffing) promotes adhesion; final sanding smooths the surface for appearance. Use finer grits for final sanding to avoid visible scratches.Q7: How long should I wait after sanding to paint?A: Make sure the surface is clean and dry—usually a quick wipe-down and 15–30 minutes is fine for small jobs, but follow primer/paint manufacturer instructions for larger projects.Q8: Where can I find professional prep guidelines?A: Manufacturer guides are best—Sherwin-Williams provides detailed prep and sanding recommendations in their technical resources (see Sherwin-Williams paint preparation guide at https://www.sherwin-williams.com for specifics).save pinStart for FREEPlease check with customer service before testing new feature.Free Room PlannerDesign your dream room online for free with the powerful room designer toolStart for FREE