What Is Used for Whitewashing Walls: A Designer’s Guide: 1 Minute to Understand the Materials & Pro Secrets for Whitewashing Walls

What is used for whitewashing walls? If you’ve ever walked into a sunlit Mediterranean cottage or a rustic farmhouse and admired those chalky, bright interiors, you’ve seen the timeless appeal of whitewashing. As a designer obsessed with practicality and visual warmth, I've fielded this question dozens of times. Today, let’s uncover exactly what’s in the bucket when someone starts whitewashing walls—and why it’s still a go-to technique for creative, sustainable makeovers.

What Is Whitewashing? The Basics and Key Ingredients

Whitewashing is a heritage wall-finishing technique whose origins stretch back centuries. At its core, whitewashing involves applying a thin, semi-translucent layer of material—traditionally a blend of slaked lime (calcium hydroxide), water, and sometimes salt—to brighten, protect, and showcase the natural character of walls. In modern home projects, this method adapts to today’s needs and safety standards: diluted acrylic latex paint or chalk paint is often substituted for hydrated lime, especially indoors or on drywall for ease and non-toxicity.

Picture yourself gathering everyday materials—lime, water, a wide brush, and creative vision. That’s genuinely all the traditional recipe asks for. It’s DIY-friendly and low-impact, making it a beloved choice in both historic preservation and modern farmhouse design.

Choosing Materials for Whitewashing Walls

The foundational whitewash for masonry uses three simple ingredients: hydrated lime, water, and table salt. The salt acts as a natural booster, helping the mix better adhere to stone or brick and offering mild mold resistance—a tip passed down through generations. For interiors, especially on newer surfaces like drywall or plaster, most pros and DIYers opt for a 1:1 or 2:1 blend of water and flat white latex paint. This delivers soft, sun-washed tones with lower risk (no caustic lime involved).

Real-world design callout: On a recent Boston brownstone project, I applied both techniques side by side—limewash on original brick for a muted, velvety look; paint wash on updated plaster for crisp contrast. Each had distinctive warmth, letting us carry historic character into modern spaces. Choose your material based on wall composition and your desired effect: organic age (lime) or refined brightness (paint).

Proper Wall Preparation: The Key to Professional Results

Begin on a surface that’s structurally sound and squeaky clean. For brick, stone, or rough plaster, scrub off dirt, dust, and any loosely bound paint. Lime adheres best to slightly damp, porous walls. Mist with clean water before applying your mix. For drywall or smooth plaster, fill cracks, sand roughness, and prime patches.

Emily’s pro tip: Always test a hidden patch first. The surface’s absorption rate changes the final look—one coat may glow, two may turn opaque, so experiment before tackling the full wall. Plan for a little unpredictability; it’s part of whitewashing’s hand-finished charm.

How to Apply Whitewash: Tools and Techniques

The preferred tool in both artisan and contemporary whitewashing is a classic masonry or limewash brush—broad, with long, soft bristles that carry plenty of material and let you work in sweeping, textured motions. This delivers the signature, almost streaked finish that bounces and diffuses light. Rollers can speed up the process on big, smooth surfaces, but risk flattening out the nuanced, layered effect. Sprayers may be fast for exteriors, but can unintentionally create drips or uneven layers indoors, especially for first-timers.

Melissa Brown, AIA-certified interior designer (source), recommends always working top-down and feathering out edges to avoid overlap marks. “A brush gives control and a touchable, artisan look you want with whitewashing,” she says.

Understanding Safety: Traditional Lime vs. Modern Alternatives

Lime is highly alkaline and can irritate skin and eyes. When using classic limewash, wear gloves, protective glasses, and clothing you’re not worried about splattering. Ventilation is also important, especially indoors. For a safer, faster project that’s suitable for families or busy spaces, stick to diluted water-based latex paint. It’s non-toxic, clean-up is simple, and you avoid caustic risks.

In both cases, protect adjacent surfaces with drop cloths, painter’s tape, and ventilation. Responsible design means both beauty and user safety.

Maintaining and Refreshing Whitewashed Surfaces

Whitewashing isn’t always permanent—expect some gentle aging, especially in high-moisture zones or heavy-traffic interiors. Traditional limewash can endure for decades on porous brick, especially if applied in several thin coats. Modern paint washes might need occasional touchups, but are easy to refresh within hours.

For ongoing beauty, avoid abrasive cleaning. Instead, dust or lightly sponge with water. If stains or marks appear, a quick diluted recoat can bring the luminous look back in minutes—no heavy sanding or stripping needed.

Whitewashing & Sustainability: The Eco-Friendly Choice

Whitewashing is a sustainable technique—lime is made from natural materials, requires little energy to produce, and offers passive antibacterial properties (per USGBC). Latex paint, while less ancient, is also low-VOC and easy to use in modern homes striving for indoor air quality compliance (18% of LEED-certified homes use this finish, according to USGBC residential trends report 2023).

Eco-conscious remodelers love whitewashing for upcycling old surfaces and adding character with minimal resource waste. In many historic American regions, this has become standard for adaptive reuse projects and certified green buildings alike.

Tips 1: Whitewashing Success Checklist

1. Choose your material based on wall type and safety needs—lime for brick, paint for drywall.
2. Prep thoroughly—clean, repair, and (for lime) dampen the wall.
3. Test a patch first to see how surfaces absorb and how many coats you’ll need.
4. Use a wide brush and apply in thin coats for control and the best light-diffusing effects.
5. Protect skin and eyes if using lime; ventilate the space regardless of material.
6. Refresh the finish as needed with a fast recoat—it’s designed to age gracefully.

FAQ

Q: What is the best whitewash recipe for a historic brick wall?

A: Classic hydrated lime (not agricultural quicklime), mixed with water and a handful of salt, remains the top choice for lasting beauty on brick or stone. Always reference NPS guidance for historic material care.

Q: Can I whitewash drywall or plaster?

A: Absolutely. Use diluted flat white latex paint—test for coverage, as smooth walls can turn patchy if the mix is too thin.

Q: How long does whitewash last?

A: Traditional lime washes can last decades outdoors on porous masonry. Paint washes may need touchups every 3-5 years indoors, depending on exposure and wear.

Q: Does whitewashing help prevent mold or mildew?

A: Limewash is naturally resistant to bacteria and fungi due to its alkaline nature. Paint washes provide only surface coverage, so address moisture issues at the source.

Q: Is whitewashing allowed in eco or LEED-certified projects?

A: Yes—lime is a sustainable, natural choice, and low-VOC latex paint meets indoor air quality criteria for most green building standards (see USGBC for reference).

Share your own whitewashing challenges, results, or tips below—join a community committed to brighter, more sustainable homes! For detailed guides and downloadable whitewash formulas, explore our resource center.