How to Get Rid of Small Red Worms in House: Proven Methods: Fast-Track Guide to Eliminating Small Red Worms Indoors

Small red worms inside a home are more than a nuisance—they’re an indicator of moisture, decaying organic matter, or entry gaps. I’ve handled dozens of residential cases where quick identification and targeted action made the difference between a one-off clean-up and recurring infestations. The work starts with knowing what you’re looking at, usually bloodworms (midge larvae) found near standing water, drain fly larvae in damp plumbing, or millipedes that wander indoors after heavy rain. In bathrooms and basements, humidity is often the trigger.

Moisture control is the single most effective long-term fix. WELL v2 (Air and Moisture Management) highlights that controlling dampness reduces microbial growth and pest pressure; maintaining relative humidity between 40–60% is widely referenced across building standards for comfort and health. In workplaces studied by Steelcase, spaces optimized for environmental comfort saw measurable improvements in user satisfaction—comfort correlates with fewer pest-friendly conditions when ventilation and maintenance are consistent. One dehumidifier set to 50% RH and a weekly inspection of plumbing traps can eliminate the primary habitat these worms rely on.

Lighting and color don’t exterminate pests, but they influence behavior and detection. Good task lighting compliant with IES recommendations improves visibility for inspecting baseboards, drains, and under-sink cavities. Clear contrasts in finishes—light-colored silicone at wet joints, for example—make larvae easier to spot during routine checks. Ergonomically, I organize inspections along paths of least resistance: floor-wall junctions, utility penetrations, sump areas, and laundry drains.

Identify the Worm Before You Act

Not all small red worms are the same. Bloodworms (bright red, thread-like) thrive in stagnant water—think old mop buckets, plant saucers, or clogged floor drains. Drain fly larvae look pale or gray and are often in gelatinous films inside traps. Millipedes are segmented and move slower; they wander in when soil is saturated. Correct identification dictates treatment—mopping the floor helps none if larvae live inside a trap, and caulk won’t matter if a plant tray is breeding midge larvae.

Immediate Clean-Up: Contain, Remove, Disinfect

Start with physical removal. Use paper towels and a trash bag, then rinse the area with hot water. Follow with a disinfectant suitable for non-porous surfaces. In wet rooms, lift rubber bath mats, scrub their underside, and squeegee water toward drains. Empty and scrub plant trays; replace water in pet dishes daily. If you find larvae near drains, pour kettled hot water slowly to avoid splashing, followed by an enzyme drain cleaner designed to digest biofilm (not a corrosive acid). Repeat nightly for 3–5 days.

Drain-Focused Strategy

Drain fly populations start in biofilm. A sequence works best: 1) mechanically clean the drain cover and immediate throat with a stiff brush, 2) apply enzyme cleaner per label, 3) flush with hot water, 4) dry the area after use. Avoid bleach or boiling water on PVC—it can damage seals. If you see persistent larvae, remove and clean the P-trap (a simple DIY with a bucket and slip-joint pliers) or call a plumber to hydro-jet. Mark the calendar—most drain fly cycles are 8–20 days; consistency breaks the cycle.

Standing Water and Hidden Reservoirs

Bloodworms signal still water and organic debris. Inspect mop buckets, humidifier reservoirs, basement sump pits, HVAC condensate pans, and unused toilets. Dump, scrub, and keep dry. In laundry areas, check the floor drain; if it’s dry, the trap may have lost its water seal, inviting pests and sewer gas—prime the trap with water and a tablespoon of mineral oil to slow evaporation.

Seal and Exclusion

Millipedes and other small arthropods exploit foundation gaps. Run a perimeter check: door sweeps, weatherstripping, utility penetrations, and slab cracks. Use exterior-grade silicone for narrow gaps and backer rod plus sealant for larger openings. If layout changes expose new utility runs or a mudroom is added, model pathways before construction with a room layout tool: room layout tool. Good planning reduces damp “dead zones” behind appliances and improves airflow.

Ventilation and Humidity Control

Set bathroom exhaust fans to run for 20–30 minutes after showers, and verify they vent outdoors. In basements, add a dehumidifier and keep RH near 50%. Where possible, improve cross-ventilation and use continuous low-speed ERV/HRV in tight homes. These small shifts reduce biofilm formation and larval survivability without chemicals.

Materials and Cleaning Protocols

Choose easy-to-clean finishes around wet areas: epoxy grout, quartz or solid-surface counters, and antimicrobial drain covers where code allows. Establish a routine: weekly drain brushing, monthly trap primer checks, and quarterly deep cleaning of condensate lines. Color selections matter—lighter tones at wet junctions help you audit cleanliness at a glance.

When to Use a Targeted Pesticide

For drain flies, a larvicide labeled for drains can complement enzyme cleaners. Use only as directed and avoid broad-spectrum sprays indoors; they seldom reach larvae and add unnecessary exposure. Outdoors, residual perimeter treatments may help with millipedes, but focus first on grading, gutters, and downspout extensions to keep soil dry.

Behavioral Patterns and Prevention

I map occupant behavior to hotspots: the corner where the mop bucket sits, the plant shelf catching overspray, the seldom-used guest bath. Small adjustments—emptying containers nightly, lifting mats to dry, setting a weekly “wet zone” inspection—cut off breeding cycles. Teach the household to spot early signs: tiny wrigglers in a film, moth-like flies near sinks, or unexpected damp under a vanity.

Acoustics, Comfort, and Habit Formation

A quieter, more comfortable utility area helps routines stick. Soft-close cabinetry, rubber feet under dehumidifiers, and task lighting on motion sensors reduce friction to nightly maintenance. The easier the process, the more consistent the execution—and consistency beats infestations every time.

FAQ

What are small red worms most likely to be?

Often bloodworms (midge larvae) in standing water, drain fly larvae in plumbing biofilm, or millipedes that wandered indoors after rain.

Are they dangerous?

They’re not typically harmful, but they indicate moisture and hygiene issues. Addressing dampness and biofilm protects air quality and comfort.

How do I stop drain fly larvae quickly?

Brush the drain throat, apply enzyme cleaner nightly for 3–5 days, flush with hot water, and keep the area as dry as possible after use.

Will bleach fix the problem?

Bleach can reduce surface microbes but doesn’t reliably penetrate biofilm and may damage plumbing or finishes. Enzymes plus mechanical cleaning are safer and more effective.

Can dehumidifiers really help?

Yes. Keeping indoor RH around 40–60% significantly reduces conditions that favor larvae. Set basements and baths near 50% RH.

How do I prevent bloodworms in plant trays?

Empty standing water, use well-draining soil, add saucer gravel to keep roots above water, and water in the morning so trays dry by night.

What if millipedes keep coming inside?

Improve exterior drainage, seal gaps, add door sweeps, and reduce mulch depth near the foundation. If needed, consider targeted perimeter treatment.

Do I need a professional?

If larvae persist after two weeks of consistent cleaning, or if you suspect a blocked trap or broken line, call a plumber or pest specialist for inspection and remediation.

Can layout changes reduce future infestations?

Yes. Plan for accessible drains, good airflow behind appliances, and fewer moisture pockets. Use an interior layout planner to visualize maintenance-friendly spaces.

How often should I clean drains?

Weekly brushing and monthly enzyme maintenance are good baselines, with extra cycles during hot, humid periods.