Remove Textured Paint: 5 Practical Methods: Hands-on ways I use to strip or hide textured paint in small spaces

Once I tried scraping textured paint off a tiny city apartment wall and ended up wearing more of it than the wall—true story. That project was part of my small kitchen project, and I learned fast: textured paint is forgiving to hide but stubborn to remove. Small spaces can inspire big creativity, so I tested five real methods that actually worked for me and my clients.

1. Sanding (Wet or Dry) with a Pole Sander

Sanding is the most straightforward route for light textures. I start with 80–100 grit to knock down peaks, then move to 150–220 grit for smoothing. Wet sanding reduces dust, which is great in compact homes, but it takes time and can expose underlying drywall imperfections.

Pros: low cost, controlled results. Challenges: labor-intensive, creates a lot of dust unless you wet sand or use a dust-collecting sander. Tip from experience: rent a pole sander for large walls—your shoulders will thank you.

2. Skim Coating with Joint Compound

When the texture is thick or the wall has many repairs, I often skim coat. Applying a thin layer or two of drywall joint compound levels the surface and gives a brand-new canvas. I once rescued a rental bedroom by skim-coating overnight and sanding lightly the next day—fast and nearly foolproof.

Pros: hides imperfections, looks professional; Cons: needs drying time and some sanding skill. Budget note: it's cheaper than replacing drywall and gives you a great finish for repainting.

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3. Chemical Paint Strippers for Stubborn Texture

For textured paint that won’t budge, chemical strippers can break it down. I use gel strippers on vertical walls to avoid drips, always wearing gloves, goggles, and ensuring strong ventilation. After a test patch, I scrape gently and neutralize per the product instructions.

Pros: effective on tough layers; Cons: messy, smelly, needs careful disposal. For visualization or planning larger remodels I sometimes show clients before-and-after renderings so they understand whether removal or covering is the smarter choice.

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4. Heat or Steam to Soften Texture

Heat guns and steamers can soften certain textured paints, making them easier to scrape. I’m careful—heat can damage drywall paper and is not suitable near plastics or flammable materials. Steamers are gentler and worked well on an old mudroom wall where sanding would have been impractical.

Pros: good for stubborn texture; Cons: risk of surface damage, not ideal for lead-painted surfaces or thin drywall. Safety first: test an inconspicuous spot and keep a fire extinguisher handy if using heat.

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5. Covering Instead of Removing: New Drywall or Thick Primer

Sometimes covering is the smartest move. Hanging a new layer of drywall, or applying a high-build primer and then a finish coat, saves time and often money. I recommended this to a client who wanted a quick turnaround—new drywall gave a flawless finish and cut renovation time.

Pros: fast visual upgrade, minimal demolition; Cons: raises wall thickness and may require trim adjustments. If you’re planning layout changes after covering the wall, consider a simple floor plan mock-up to ensure doors and trims still align.

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Tips 1:

Quick checklist: test for lead if your house is old, always do a small test patch, protect floors and furniture, and prioritize ventilation. If you’re unsure, hire a pro for the test patch and estimate—I've seen DIYs turn into full rehabs when lead or water damage shows up.

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FAQ

Q: How do I know if my textured paint contains lead?

A: If your home was built before 1978, assume it might. Get a certified lead test kit or hire a professional. According to the U.S. EPA, homes built before 1978 may contain lead-based paint and should be tested before renovation: https://www.epa.gov/lead.

Q: Can I use a heat gun on any textured paint?

A: Not always—heat can damage drywall and release harmful fumes. Avoid heat if you suspect lead paint or if the wall is directly adjacent to plastic trim or wiring.

Q: Is skim coating cheaper than replacing drywall?

A: Usually yes for one or two walls. Skim coating uses less material and less demolition time, but replacing drywall can be better if the substrate is damaged or moldy.

Q: How long does a skim coat take to dry?

A: Typical drying time is 12–24 hours per coat, depending on temperature and humidity. Thin coats dry faster; use a dehumidifier to speed things up in humid climates.

Q: Do chemical strippers remove all layers of paint?

A: Most modern gel strippers remove multiple layers, but performance varies. Always do a patch test and follow manufacturer safety instructions.

Q: Should I sand before repainting after removing texture?

A: Yes—light sanding after removal or skim coating helps primer and paint adhere and produces a smoother final finish.

Q: When should I call a pro?

A: Call a pro if you suspect lead, extensive water or mold damage, or if the textured surface covers load-bearing elements. A pro can also speed up large jobs safely.

Q: Can I just paint over textured walls to hide them?

A: Painting can visually mute texture, especially with high-build primers and multiple finish coats, but it won’t erase the feel under bright light or on close inspection. Covering or skim coating gives the truest smooth result.

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