Smooth Painted Walls: 5 Easy Fixes: Practical, pro-tested ways I use to get a flawless painted wall in small spaces

I once painted over a textured wall to save time, only to have the new color highlight every bump like a topographic map — the client called it “modern cottage cheese.” I learned the hard way that getting a smooth painted wall takes more than a roller and optimism. When I prep a wall, I start by visualizing the space so I know whether a perfect finish is worth the time (and budget).

1. Sand and feather the surface

Sanding is the classic move. I use a sanding block for small areas and an orbital sander for larger walls, working from coarse to fine grit so edges feather out smoothly. It’s cheap and fast, but dusty and a little messy — wear a mask and cover furniture.

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2. Skim coat with joint compound

For serious texture or orange-peel finishes, a thin skim coat of joint compound is magic. Apply with a broad knife, let it dry, then sand smooth; the result looks professional and holds paint beautifully. It adds labor and a drying wait, but the payoff is a flat, durable surface.

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3. Spot-repair with spackle and primer

Small dents, nail holes, and runs are often fixed with lightweight spackle and a quick block-sand. I always prime patched spots before repainting so sheen and color match. This is budget-friendly and high-impact, though it won’t fix heavy texture.

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4. Use high-build or sandable primer

When you don’t want to skim coat, a high-build or sandable primer can fill light imperfections and cut sanding time. It’s less prep than joint compound and great for rental refreshes, but don’t expect miracles on deep texture.

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5. When to repaint or call a pro

Sometimes the smartest move is a fresh coat with a leveling paint or hiring pros for re-plastering — especially on very large walls or historic surfaces. If you’re reworking a kitchen, think about the kitchen workflow too: smoother walls look better around cabinets and backsplashes. Calling a pro costs more, but it saves time and guarantees a consistently smooth finish.

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Finishing touches and budget tips

Always sand between coats and use a good quality brush or roller to avoid stipple. For tight budgets, focus on high-visibility walls and use spot repairs elsewhere. If you want to preview the end result before committing, I often study realistic finish previews to check how light will play across the wall.

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FAQ

Q1: Can I sand painted walls without removing old paint?

A1: Yes — light sanding and scuffing prepares glossy paint for new coatings. For lead-era homes (pre-1978 in the US), test first and follow safety rules.

Q2: What grit sandpaper should I use?

A2: Start with 80–120 grit for heavy texture, then move to 180–220 grit for final smoothing. Finish with a light hand to avoid gouging the drywall.

Q3: Is skim coating difficult for a DIYer?

A3: It’s doable with practice; small walls and practice boards help. Expect a learning curve — your first skim may need two passes.

Q4: How long should I wait between skim coat and paint?

A4: Joint compound needs to fully dry, usually 24 hours depending on thickness and humidity, then sand and prime before painting.

Q5: Can I use a drywall compound over painted drywall?

A5: Yes, but rough or glossy paint should be scuffed or stripped so the compound bonds well. A bonding primer can also help.

Q6: How do I handle lead paint risks?

A6: If your home was built before 1978, get a certified lead test and follow EPA Renovation, Repair and Painting (RRP) guidelines to protect occupants and workers (see https://www.epa.gov/lead for details).

Q7: Will a fresh coat of paint hide small imperfections?

A7: High-quality paint can mask minor flaws, but lighting and close inspection will still reveal bumps. Proper prep yields the best long-term look.

Q8: When is it worth hiring a professional?

A8: Hire pros for large areas, extensive cracking, moisture damage, or when you want guaranteed flatness; their tools and experience cut rework and save time.

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