What Grit Sandpaper for Painting Walls: 5 Quick Tips: Practical grit recommendations for drywall, plaster, trim and glossy surfaces from a veteran interior designerUncommon Author NameOct 21, 2025Table of Contents1. New drywall or skim coat: start with 120–150 grit2. Plaster and repaired areas: 150–220 grit3. Removing old paint or leveling rough surfaces: 80–100 grit4. Between coats and deglossing: 220–320 grit5. Trim, doors and high-sheen finishes: 320–600+ gritFAQTable of Contents1. New drywall or skim coat start with 120–150 grit2. Plaster and repaired areas 150–220 grit3. Removing old paint or leveling rough surfaces 80–100 grit4. Between coats and deglossing 220–320 grit5. Trim, doors and high-sheen finishes 320–600+ gritFAQFree Room PlannerDesign your dream room online for free with the powerful room designer toolStart for FREEI once sanded an entire living room with a grit too coarse because a client swore “it’ll be faster” — and we spent the next weekend re-sanding. That taught me to respect grit numbers like they’re traffic signals: the wrong one can cause real damage or wasted time. If you’re prepping walls for paint, choosing the right sandpaper grit is one of the easiest ways to avoid a repaint headache, and it ties into broader choices like layout and surface planning; for starting ideas I often point people to a handy space planning inspiration that helps visualize the whole room before the paint goes on.1. New drywall or skim coat: start with 120–150 gritFor fresh drywall or a new skim coat, I usually begin with 120–150 grit to knock down high spots and joint ridges without digging into the paper face. It’s aggressive enough to level seams but fine enough to avoid visible scratches; follow with a lighter pass of 180–220 if you want an ultra-smooth finish. The trade-off is dust — wear a mask and use a vacuum-backed sanding block to keep cleanup manageable.save pin2. Plaster and repaired areas: 150–220 gritPlaster can be temperamental, so I treat patched or repaired spots with 150–220 grit depending on how hard the patch is. Start coarser for uneven spots, then feather with 220 so the repaired area blends seamlessly with surrounding plaster. It’s a small extra step that prevents shadows and telegraphing after paint dries.save pin3. Removing old paint or leveling rough surfaces: 80–100 gritIf you’re stripping flaky paint or smoothing very rough surfaces, 80–100 grit does the heavy lifting. It’s efficient but can leave visible scratches, so always follow with 120–150 and finish at 180–220 for painting. For visualizing where to focus prep work on a tight budget, I sometimes use a free floor sketch to map problem areas and plan work sessions — it helps stop me from over-sanding one wall while neglecting another.save pin4. Between coats and deglossing: 220–320 gritBetween coats of paint or to dull a gloss before recoating, 220–320 grit is my go-to. It removes slight imperfections and creates enough tooth for the next coat without cutting through. The upside is a smooth, professional finish; the downside is it doesn’t remove heavy defects — you’ll need the coarser grits first.save pin5. Trim, doors and high-sheen finishes: 320–600+ gritWhen I’m working on wood trim, doors, or high-gloss enamel, I switch to 320–600 grit for the final sanding and wet-sanding between topcoats. It produces that silky finish that makes trims pop, but it’s slower and you’ll want to use light pressure and clean the surface thoroughly before painting. For kitchen or bathroom areas where moisture and sheen matter, I often refer clients to a practical kitchen layout reference to coordinate trim work with fixtures and finishes — it saves awkward touch-ups later.save pinFAQQ1: What grit sandpaper should I use first on painted walls?A1: Start with 80–120 grit only if you need to remove old, flaking paint. Otherwise use 120–150 for general smoothing, then refine with 180–220 before priming.Q2: Is higher grit always better for a smooth finish?A2: Higher grit gives a smoother finish but is less effective at removing material. Use a progression from coarse to fine to both level and smooth the surface.Q3: How do I avoid swirl marks from sanding?A3: Use a sanding block or a sponge to keep even pressure, sand with the grain where applicable, and finish with finer grits like 220–320 to eliminate visible scratches.Q4: Can I wet sand walls between coats?A4: Wet sanding is typically used for high-gloss surfaces and trims, not large wall areas. For walls, dry sanding with dust control is more practical.Q5: Do I always need to prime after sanding?A5: Yes — sanding opens the surface and primer seals it, improves adhesion, and ensures consistent topcoat appearance.Q6: What safety gear should I use when sanding?A6: At minimum, wear an N95 mask, eye protection, and use dust extraction or a vacuum attachment to reduce airborne dust.Q7: Any official guidance on sanding and surface prep?A7: Paint manufacturers like Sherwin-Williams provide detailed prep and sanding recommendations for their products; see Sherwin-Williams' technical resources for product-specific guidance (Source: https://www.sherwin-williams.com).Q8: How do I choose between sanding tools (hand block, pole sander, orbital)?A8: Hand blocks give control for small repairs, pole sanders speed drywall work on ceilings and high walls, and orbital sanders are fast but risk over-sanding if used carelessly; choose based on area size and your comfort level.save pinStart for FREEPlease check with customer service before testing new feature.Free Room PlannerDesign your dream room online for free with the powerful room designer toolStart for FREE