What Grit Sandpaper for Walls: Practical grit choices and quick tips from a pro interior designerUncommon Author NameOct 21, 2025Table of Contents1. Match the grit to the wall condition2. Drywall seams and spackle: go medium fine3. Between coats and final scuff: fine grit4. Tools, dust control, and sensible shortcuts5. Budget bundles and a simple checklistFAQTable of Contents1. Match the grit to the wall condition2. Drywall seams and spackle go medium fine3. Between coats and final scuff fine grit4. Tools, dust control, and sensible shortcuts5. Budget bundles and a simple checklistFAQFree Room PlannerDesign your dream room online for free with the powerful room designer toolStart for FREEOnce I sanded an entire guest room with 80-grit like a man on a mission—only to discover I’d created low spots around the taped joints. I still laugh about it, but it taught me the hard way that grit choice matters more than elbow grease. Small fixes in a small room can look huge, and small spaces often spark big creativity; that’s why I want to share simple, reliable grit rules I use on every job. For planning a repaint that fits the space, I often check room layout examples room layout examples to visualize traffic and light before choosing finishes.1. Match the grit to the wall conditionIf the wall has old, flaking paint or you need to remove drips and bumps, start with 60–80 grit to cut through tough material quickly. For general smoothing of rough areas or paint edges use 80–120 grit; it removes texture without gouging. The upside is speed; the downside is more dust and the risk of over-sanding—so test a small area first.save pin2. Drywall seams and spackle: go medium fineFor taped seams and fresh joint compound I usually use 120–150 grit. It ferries down ridges and leaves a surface that primer and paint grab to without showing scratches. It’s forgiving, easy to control with a sanding block, and minimizes the sanding swirl that coarser papers can leave.save pin3. Between coats and final scuff: fine gritBetween primer and paint or between paint coats, 220 grit is my go-to—just enough to remove nibs and give a tooth for the next layer. For ultra-smooth finishes on trim or cabinetry I’ll step up to 320–400 grit. If you’re coordinating a larger repaint or renovation, pair these sanding steps with detailed floor plans detailed floor plans so you know which areas to prep first.save pin4. Tools, dust control, and sensible shortcutsA sanding sponge and a sanding block beat freehand paper for even pressure; use a pole sander for ceilings and a vacuum attachment with a random-orbit sander to cut dust. Wet sanding with fine grits can help on glossy surfaces but not on drywall. Before you crank an electric sander, visualize the result—I often make a quick 3D render to preview finishes and catch problems early: 3D render previews.save pin5. Budget bundles and a simple checklistMost pros carry packs of 80, 120, and 220 grit as a minimal kit—cover the bases without overspending. Quick checklist: inspect for lead paint, patch and let dry, start coarse only where needed, smooth with 120–150, finish with 220. If you’re ever unsure or the house is old, hire a pro for the prep; I’ve saved homeowners money by catching hidden problems early.save pinFAQQ1: What grit sandpaper should I use for drywall before painting?I typically use 120–150 grit for drywall joints and patched areas; it smooths without leaving deep scratches and prepares the surface for primer.Q2: Is 220 grit okay for the whole wall?220 grit is great for scuffing between coats and final smoothing, but it won’t remove heavy texture or old paint—start coarser where needed and finish with 220.Q3: Can I skip sanding and just use primer?If the wall is very smooth and the paint is well-adhered, you might get away with scuff-sanding only. For patched areas or glossy paint, sanding is necessary for adhesion and a flawless finish.Q4: What grit to remove old paint?For stripping old, thick paint use 60–80 grit to remove material fast, then progress up to 120–150 to blend and smooth the surface.Q5: How do I control sanding dust?Use a sander with a vacuum hookup, wear an N95 or better mask, and cover furniture. For lead-era homes follow strict containment; do not rely on just a dustpan.Q6: Can I wet sand drywall?Wet sanding is not recommended for drywall because the paper and the gypsum soak up moisture; stick to dry sanding with proper dust control.Q7: Is professional help needed for lead paint?Yes. Follow EPA guidelines—see the EPA's Renovation, Repair and Painting (RRP) Rule at https://www.epa.gov/lead for requirements and safety steps when renovating pre-1978 homes.Q8: Which sandpaper is best for plaster walls?For traditional plaster use 120–150 grit for smoothing and 220 for the final scuff; avoid overly aggressive grits that can pull plaster away and create hollows.save pinStart for FREEPlease check with customer service before testing new feature.Free Room PlannerDesign your dream room online for free with the powerful room designer toolStart for FREE